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Humidity: 50-60% for most but some species perfers a bit more (70-80%)
Avoid over-misting
Hygrometer and Thermometer are helpful
4. Lighting
12 Hours light/dark cycle recommended
UVB not needed
Avoid heat-lamps or heavy sun exposure as it can dry out or overheat the enclosure
5. Cleaning
Remove uneaten food after 24h
Poop spot clean weekly
Only deep clean if there's mold or for a new spider -Only use warm water (no strong cleaners)
6. Molting
They grow by molting, and each stages between molts is called an instar.
Juveniles: i1 to i4
Sub-Adults: i5 to i7
Adults: i8 and above
They may stop eating 2-7 days before molting
They may hide for a few days to a few weeks on some occasion to molt
After molting, jumping spiders need time for their exoskeleton and fangs to harden before they can safely eat. Trying to feed too early can stress them or cause injury.
Wait until they're more active before feeding again
Avoid distrubing them if they're going to molt and if they just molted
During the molting process, make sure the humidity level is good
7. Diet
Juveniles: Every 1-3 days - Flightless fruit flies
Sub-adults: every 2-5 days -Flightless fruit flies -Small roaches -Small crickets
Adults: Every 3-6 days -Small crickets -Small roaches -Flies
Water: No need for water dish, they'll drink from the misting
Notes: - Only give foor the same size (or smaller) of your spider's abdomen to make sure your spider can't turn into food for the other insects - Be careful not to overfeed them. The size of their abdomen can tell you if he/she's hungry
8. Other tips
If they make a hammock (nest), it means that they're comfy
If they stop eating and hide, they may be preparing to molt
When walking, they're using a web as a lifeline - If you take your spider out of the enclosure, be careful with their lifeline
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